The agenda for the day was an expedition to see a geyser and a waterfall. I was glad we opted for one of the shorter tour options, which totaled 5.5 hours, according to the literature. On the way out, the tour guide explained a lot about the history and geology of the country. We went past a couple of volcanic flows, the most recent about 1,000 years old. From the look of them, I realized that the Blue Lagoon must be sitting in a volcanic flow.
When we got to the “lowlands,” there was a lot of geothermal activity that was visible, in terms of vents. They categorize the geothermal activity as “high” (above 200 degrees C, which is not usable for heating), and “low.” I could see steam rising across the low areas and the hills. Sometimes a hot spring will turn up in someone’s yard, or even under their house, which must make for some interesting quandaries with your homeowner’s insurance. A few people have managed to convert these to make hot tubs out of them.
Iceland was settled in about the 9th century by a Norse pioneer, Ingólfur Arnarson, who when he saw land, asked for a sign from Odin whether he should settle there. He eventually went back to Norway, and brought the first settlers back to Iceland. Due to a 300-year separation from Norway, the language has evolved to a point where they can’t communicate with each other anymore, so Icelandic became its own language.
Our first stop was a crater. It was not formed by an eruption (i.e., nothing that spewed lava or ash), but a subsidence. The last thing we were told before we got off the bus was to stay on the path. So naturally, everyone got off the path, to have a better look and take pictures. At one point, I had to walk away from Eric, who was in the loose gravel at the edge of the crater.
As we traveled we saw many small horses. Iceland has its own breed of horse, which was brought by the original settlers. It is now a pure breed, and the Icelanders love them – horseback riding is one of their favorite pastimes. They have very strict laws and won’t import other breeds of horse, although they have exported the Icelandic horse throughout the world. They are known for their gentle temperament, and their five gaits – one of them is a smooth, fast gait, like that of the Tennessee walker.
There were lots of little vacation houses, about 1 hour out from Rekjavik. These average about 30 square meters – just big enough for a couple of beds and a kitchenette. The point is to get away from the city and close to the horses and other outdoor activities.
The next stop was the geyser. Apparently, this was different from the one featured on the tour last year. Geysers are born and they die spontaneously. We walked past the old one, still boiling and bubbling, but without enough steam to erupt, as if in need of the geothermal form of Viagra.
The current geyser goes off every 5-7 minutes, and is surrounded by other vents and bubbling pools. Areas of danger are roped off with warning signs, stating that the water is 100 degrees C (i.e., boiling). I observed a group of young French men as they stopped by one of these pools. One of them stuck his fingers in, taking them out quickly, and with a yelp.
The cycle of a geyser eruption is from still water, to small bubbles, then the water raises and lowers in the vent a few times, like a person preparing to sneeze. When the geyser erupts, it is accompanied by a rumble and a whoosh. This geyser went up about 30 meters in the air, getting some people wet in the process. Some people made a game of seeing how close they could get to the eruption without getting wet.
After standing by and watching the geyser erupt, I walked around the field a bit. There was steam rising, and one could catch an occasional whiff of sulfur.
Then we moved on to the waterfall. I can’t remember the name of the lady who saved this national treasure. She was born and raised on a farm next to the “Golden Fall,” within sight of the “Long Glacier.” When there was talk of converting the falls into a hydroelectric plant, she started campaigning vigorously to save them. She walked all the way to Reykjavík (which for us had just been 1½ hours by bus) to make her appeal to the government. She even threatened to throw herself into the falls. Eventually she won. Who could resist such determination? Looking at the falls, it is inconceivable to think of such a place being converted into something industrial, and Iceland is now very glad that they have retained this place of natural beauty and power.
Walking up the hill, one could see both the falls and the glacier. There were little cairn-like piles of rocks, which had been put there by visitors. Although I’m not sure of their exact significance, I thought I had read of such a thing being done to honor a person or a place. Accordingly, I added my own rock to one of the piles before going back down the hill.
We found out from our guide that while we were there, the President of Iceland had come by to visit the Falls. Apparently, he travels all around the country with only his driver, and no security detail, and all his people know him by sight.
Returning to our hotel, we ventured out once more for dinner at the Sea Baron and then made it an early night, as we would be getting up at 4:00 to catch our bus to the airport.
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